[MessaboutW] Don't get a Mortising Machine from Harbor Freight (2024)

The Building a Greenland Kayak book outlines a few methods of cutting mortises.

The first, most 'authentic' and labor intensive, is to use a chisel and carve out each of the ~ 50 mortises. I did not try this.

The second, using and jig and a brad point bit, along with a chisel to square out the corners, was the one I did try. I made a damn good jig, had new brad point bits, had a drill stop - everything to make it work right, and it was miserable. The brad point bit wandered. The chisel worked, but took a LOT of effort to get things clean. VERY time intensive and very difficult to replicate good cuts.

The 3rd is a drill press with special attachments. While we do have a drill press, I didn't have the attachment, nor was one immediately available. My experience with the brad point bit had sort of soured me on half-measures, so I skipped this potion.

The "fastest" method in the book was a Mortising Machine. Since I really, Really, REALLY, like the idea of making Northwest kayak designs, I thought it might be worth the investment. Most of these cost $350, but HF has one for $200 - and there is a HF right down the road. Since HF is usually very nice about returning their garbage products, I thought it was worth a shot.

There was a Mortising Machine on display, but no boxes to be seen. I had the kid get one from the back. The box it was in was pretty well mashed up, but I wasn't really buying a box, so I bought it anyway.

Assembly was pretty easy - not too many parts. The manual SUCKED though - less than minimal drawings and the typical translations from whatever language to English. Understand the fit and finish is also bad. The part that was most distressing was even the plastic parts were of cheap plastic.

Once all together, it didn't even function well. Pull the lever, and the lowest the bit would go was 1.25" above the base. Pull the arm all the way down, and it strikes the table before the stroke bottoms out. Yup, you want the full stroke, you have to either raise the piece up or stop the stroke, adjust the handle, and pull again. Then, there is a "hold down' thingy that helps keep the piece from sticking to the chisel. That piece has a little foot on it ~1/2" wide, meaning you can't put a mortise in the center of a 3/4" stick. Even then, the way the assembly goes together, the system can't even get THAT close - the bit for the chisel strikes the hold down thingy until it is about 5/8" out.

In short: To get this thing to cut the mortises I need, I would have to build up shims on both the X and Y access. Could I do it? Sure. Every friggin time. What good is a fence if it can't hold the piece? Why have a handle that can't do a full stroke? Could it have been worked around? Probably - with effort. Is that what I pay for? To have to figure out how to overcome sh*tty engineering? No.

And before y'all start chiming in with "did you read the manual?" and "I have one of those and I got it to work just fine by using a 17/64th piece of whale bone as a shim" or "Why don't you just use a narwhal tusk like the Eskimos do?" as helpful as those suggestions are, please . . . just don't.

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On 3/2/2016 12:29 PM, 'John Kohnen' jkohnen@... [MessaboutW] wrote:

If you were gonna spend that kind of money you coulda got one of those
little plunge routers we were talking about a little while ago. Good for
kayak-scale mortising, and a whole lot more:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0046A8V6A/themotherofal-20

Heck, one of the Big Harbor Freight plunge routers would have been a
better investment:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=plunge+router

Or, for no more money -- since you already bought them -- you coulda put a
fence on the Boathouse's drill press and used one of those upcut spiral
bits. For handling long pieces like the gunwales you might want to bolt a
piece plywood to the drill press table as a larger, auxiliary table.

On Wed, 02 Mar 2016 10:32:52 -0800, Andrew wrote:

I don't generally buy power tools from Harbor Freight, but I have had
very good luck with my 4x24 belt sander from them, so I thought I would
give their mortising machine a shot (I have to cut a lot of mortises for
the kayaks I am building, and I figured a mortising machine might make
it easier.)

http://www.harborfreight.com/mortising-machine-35570.html

This thing is garbage. Just total garbage. I could rant for an hour, but
the summary would be the same: Garbage.

[MessaboutW] Don't get a Mortising Machine from Harbor Freight (2024)

FAQs

Can you use a drill press as a mortising machine? ›

The drill press does not leave a perfect mortise like you could get off a router, hollow chisel mortiser or a horizontal mortiser, but it does accurately evacuate the waste for the mortise. This saves a lot of up-front time and is easier to clean up with chisels afterward.

Can you mortise with a hand drill? ›

Thanks to the new precise and sophisticated product you can produce mortises only with a manual electric drill, which everyone has.

What is the best drill bit for mortise? ›

The fence guarantees that every hole you drill will be exactly the same distance from the face of the board, and the mortise will be parallel to that face. The best style of drill bit for this operation is a Forstner bit (see Sources).

What is the difference between a mortiser and a drill press? ›

Since the bit alone does all cutting on a drill press, the low-torque feed levers take a few rotations for a complete stroke. The feed on a mortiser, meanwhile, fully lowers the auger/chisel assembly in a single, high-torque pull to power the chisel into the workpiece.

Can you turn wood on a drill press? ›

Using very few materials and common hand tools you can turn your drill press into a small lathe for wood and plastic.

What not to do with a drill press? ›

Don't drill with too much pressure. Always try to support part on parallels or a backing board when drilling thru material. Never place taper shank tools such as large diameter drills or tapered shank reamers in a drill chuck. Only straight shank tools such as standard drills can be clamped in chucks.

Can you machine with a drill press? ›

Drill presses are not designed to handle the lateral forces generated during milling, and attempting to use one for this purpose can result in a compromised end product and potential damage to your machine.

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